VERSIÓN EN ESPAÑOL
Kiyomizu dera or Pure Water Temple (清水寺), located in the Higashiyama mountains east of Kyoto, is one of the most impressive and famous building complexes of traditional Japan. A UNESCO World Heritage site since 1994, it was one of the 21 candidates in the New Seven Wonders of the World international poll.
The history of Kiyomizu dera (dera means Buddhist temple, while ji implies a Shinto shrine jinja) is more ancient than Kyoto itself. According to the legend, in 778 Enchin, a monk from Nara, inspired by a dream followed the path of a limpid stream until a crystalline waterfall by the Otowa hillside and in that place he built a shrine in honor of Kannon, the female deity of goodness. Two years later, in 780, the famous general Sakanoue Tamuramaro walked by the place after hunting a deer for his pregnant wife, because at that time it was believed that the deer blood was good for fertility. Enchin severely reprimanded Tamuramaro for killing the animal, so the repented general built a temple in honor of the pure water from the waterfall, which he called Kiyo Mizu which was finished in 798. The original building lasted until 1629 when it was destroyed by a fire, being rebuilt in 1633. Today there are still several areas where that restoration can be seen.
The history of Kiyomizu dera (dera means Buddhist temple, while ji implies a Shinto shrine jinja) is more ancient than Kyoto itself. According to the legend, in 778 Enchin, a monk from Nara, inspired by a dream followed the path of a limpid stream until a crystalline waterfall by the Otowa hillside and in that place he built a shrine in honor of Kannon, the female deity of goodness. Two years later, in 780, the famous general Sakanoue Tamuramaro walked by the place after hunting a deer for his pregnant wife, because at that time it was believed that the deer blood was good for fertility. Enchin severely reprimanded Tamuramaro for killing the animal, so the repented general built a temple in honor of the pure water from the waterfall, which he called Kiyo Mizu which was finished in 798. The original building lasted until 1629 when it was destroyed by a fire, being rebuilt in 1633. Today there are still several areas where that restoration can be seen.
Leading up to the temple, which sits on top of the hill, there are attractive walkways, stoic survivors of the fire that in 1864 destroyed the 80% of Kyoto, the Second World War and the development of post-war modernity who has destroyed rich historical legacy. These narrow, steep alleyways, called Ninen-zaka and Sannen zaka are authentic examples of traditional urban setting in ancient Japanese cities, with two-storey houses called machiya located in the rear. Both streets meet in another passage, the Kiyomizu-zaka (their names mean "slopes of two and three years” respectively, and owe their name to the superstition that if one stumbles on Ninen-saka one will have two years of bad luck, while if one does so in Sanne-zaka it will be three years). Kiyomizu-zaka, continues its ascent to the temple offering interesting perspectives to the visitor, and of course, numerous shops which offer, among others, the famous school of ceramics Kiyomizu-yaki .
At the end of the narrow passage, the vista is opened to show a broad view of Kiyomizu Temple. The composition of the successive and terraced elements, together with stairs and platforms, gives a magnificent and imposing character to the entrance.
Kiyomizu dera complex consists of a dozen buildings, the largest of which we discuss below:
Nio-mon
Set in an atrium, the Gate of the two Kings is a two-storey block with a cypress bark roof, built in 1478. On both sides there are two separate kings and two lions koma-inu, to protect the temple from evil spirits.
Sai-mon
Following up another set of stairs is the so called Eastern Gate another two-story building painted in vermilion and white (symbolizing a reference to its Chinese Buddhist roots), covered with a cypress ceiling supported by eight columns. It was built in 1607 in the elaborate style of the Momoyama period.
Shoro Shoreor the bell tower. It is located to the left of Sai-mon, and although it was built in 1596, the bell was cast in 1478.
Sanju no to It is a 3-story pagoda located east of Sai-mon. It is the tallest 3-story pagoda in Japan. In the distance, it dominates the skyline with its graceful and slender profile; up close, is notable for its fine details and decoration.
Behind the pagoda, there is a series of smaller buildings not usually open to the public, such as a library Kyodo Sutra, which holds sacred Buddhist texts, the Kaiser-do (Hall of the Founder) which contains colored figures and the Todoroki-mon or central door, with similar characteristics to the doors above mentioned. A Japanese contribution to the temples imported from China is the inclusion of a fountain as a purifying element, and in the case of Kiyomizu dera takes the form of a dragon throwing water from the mouth.
Asakura-do
A room donated by Asakura Sadakaga in 1633, which contains a statue of Kannon of 11 faces and a stone representing the footprints of the Buddha. The building is placed on a stone base and surrounded by a railing.
Hon-do
It is the main and more representative building of Kiyomizu dera.
It is a structure of 58 mx 27 m, towering over a ravine and supported by 139 wooden columns, which measure up to 15 meters high. Interestingly, these piles are placed on stone bases, without proper foundation. The columns support a large terrace that served as a stage for dance performances, and in both sides there are roofed galleries where the orchestras of monks used to be located.
3D Image by Carlos Zeballos.
Section of the Hon-do. Source Architectural Map of Kyoto
It contains the two shrines. One external or gejin,made of a wooden floor and simple ornament which boasts an outstanding view, and another internal or naijin,with stone floor and prolific in interior decoration.
3D Image Carlos Zeballos.
View of the Gejin. The Naijin can be seen to the left.
The huge roof of the hall reaches 16 m high and cantilevers over the terrace. Unlike other Japanese temples whose roofs are covered with tiles, the Hon-do’s roof is covered with cypress shingles. It is flanked by lower roofs on the sides, and one of them protrudes on the east side, called mokoshi.
3D Image Carlos Zeballos.
It follows a series of smaller buildings, arranged in L-shape layout in front of the ravine, most notably the Okuno-in, the place where the first chapel was built and, because of its terrace, it enjoys a privileged location to see the Hon-do and the southern area of the city of Kyoto.
Otowa no taki
About 15 meters below the level of theOkuno is the waterfall that gave its name and the origin of the temple. The "waterfall of the sound of feathers " runs through three channels of stone. It is said to have healing powers, so it is common to see cues of Japanese drinking from its waters. Because of its location in the heart of the gorge it is protected by nature and architecture as the symbolic center of the temple.
Koyasu-no-to
This is another pagoda, located south of the complex, and that can be seen from the Hon-do, emerging from the trees.
Some experts, such as David and Michiko Young, have associated the form of the Japanese and Chinese pagodas with the stupas in India.
An interesting journey
One aspect that caught my attention when visiting the Kiyomizu dera was the appealing approach that accompanies the visitor from his ascension to Ninna-zaka- or Sansen zaka. The narrow, winding passages encourage the visitor to follow a sort of unique pilgrimage. Once in the temple, the buildings are placed leading the visitor through a series of spaces, channels and halls, which are brilliantly arranged undergoing changes of scale and openness, ranging from the enclosed spaces to the exposed ones. This combination of mass and open spaces frames the breathtaking scenery of the city from the top of the hill.
Aerial view taken from "The Urban Space of Japan"
The integration of the building to the topography offers the visitors numerous vistas ranging from climbing to a panoramic viewpoint, entering a thick forest, establishing contact with the water of the waterfall or enjoying the exquisite view of a garden organized around a pond.
Photo courtesy of Tobias Wittig
The integration of architecture with the landscape is remarkable, not only by the materials used and the spatial flow within the buildings , but because of the form of the coverings, which simulates the visual continuity of the mountain. As a counterpoint to the mass of temples of pyramidal roofs, the verticality and slenderness of the pagodas contrasts with the profile of the forested mountain.
Some Final Anecdotes
This traditional temple is also the subject of several anecdotal occurrences that I would briefly comment.
- During the Edo period , many people used to jump from the terrace of the Hon-do, as an act of courage. In fact, of 234 jumps, over 85% survived the fall on the trees. From there comes the Japanese proverb "to jump from the terrace of Kiyomizu dera" in order to refer to a glorious act or of much value.
- - It is said that in the eighth century a pregnant woman came to pray at the pagoda Koyasu-no-to and the baby turned out to be the Empress Kokko, making it a favorite place to visit for pregnant women.
- As mentioned, it is said that drinking water from the waterfall Otowa no taki is good for health, success and longevity studies, but water only should be drink from one of the waterfalls, because if you take the three effects are the opposite as divine punishment for greed.
- North of the temple is the Jishu shrine where there are a couple of stones called Mekura ishi, separated from each other by about 20 meters. It is said one has to walk from one stone to another with the eyes closed, repeating the name of his/her beloved one. If you get to the correct destination, it will ensure a happy love life, if not... it is better to find another partner ...
Photo by MykReeve
With Dominican architect Juan Tineo, enjoying a beer next to the waterfall
Kiyomizu dera complex consists of a dozen buildings, the largest of which we discuss below:
Nio-mon
Set in an atrium, the Gate of the two Kings is a two-storey block with a cypress bark roof, built in 1478. On both sides there are two separate kings and two lions koma-inu, to protect the temple from evil spirits.
Sai-mon
Following up another set of stairs is the so called Eastern Gate another two-story building painted in vermilion and white (symbolizing a reference to its Chinese Buddhist roots), covered with a cypress ceiling supported by eight columns. It was built in 1607 in the elaborate style of the Momoyama period.
Shoro Shoreor the bell tower. It is located to the left of Sai-mon, and although it was built in 1596, the bell was cast in 1478.
Sanju no to It is a 3-story pagoda located east of Sai-mon. It is the tallest 3-story pagoda in Japan. In the distance, it dominates the skyline with its graceful and slender profile; up close, is notable for its fine details and decoration.
Behind the pagoda, there is a series of smaller buildings not usually open to the public, such as a library Kyodo Sutra, which holds sacred Buddhist texts, the Kaiser-do (Hall of the Founder) which contains colored figures and the Todoroki-mon or central door, with similar characteristics to the doors above mentioned. A Japanese contribution to the temples imported from China is the inclusion of a fountain as a purifying element, and in the case of Kiyomizu dera takes the form of a dragon throwing water from the mouth.
Asakura-do
A room donated by Asakura Sadakaga in 1633, which contains a statue of Kannon of 11 faces and a stone representing the footprints of the Buddha. The building is placed on a stone base and surrounded by a railing.
Hon-do
It is the main and more representative building of Kiyomizu dera.
It is a structure of 58 mx 27 m, towering over a ravine and supported by 139 wooden columns, which measure up to 15 meters high. Interestingly, these piles are placed on stone bases, without proper foundation. The columns support a large terrace that served as a stage for dance performances, and in both sides there are roofed galleries where the orchestras of monks used to be located.
3D Image by Carlos Zeballos.
Section of the Hon-do. Source Architectural Map of Kyoto 
3D Image Carlos Zeballos.
View of the Gejin. The Naijin can be seen to the left.
3D Image Carlos Zeballos.It follows a series of smaller buildings, arranged in L-shape layout in front of the ravine, most notably the Okuno-in, the place where the first chapel was built and, because of its terrace, it enjoys a privileged location to see the Hon-do and the southern area of the city of Kyoto.
Otowa no taki
About 15 meters below the level of theOkuno is the waterfall that gave its name and the origin of the temple. The "waterfall of the sound of feathers " runs through three channels of stone. It is said to have healing powers, so it is common to see cues of Japanese drinking from its waters. Because of its location in the heart of the gorge it is protected by nature and architecture as the symbolic center of the temple.
Koyasu-no-to
This is another pagoda, located south of the complex, and that can be seen from the Hon-do, emerging from the trees.
Some experts, such as David and Michiko Young, have associated the form of the Japanese and Chinese pagodas with the stupas in India.
An interesting journey One aspect that caught my attention when visiting the Kiyomizu dera was the appealing approach that accompanies the visitor from his ascension to Ninna-zaka- or Sansen zaka. The narrow, winding passages encourage the visitor to follow a sort of unique pilgrimage. Once in the temple, the buildings are placed leading the visitor through a series of spaces, channels and halls, which are brilliantly arranged undergoing changes of scale and openness, ranging from the enclosed spaces to the exposed ones. This combination of mass and open spaces frames the breathtaking scenery of the city from the top of the hill.
Aerial view taken from "The Urban Space of Japan"The integration of the building to the topography offers the visitors numerous vistas ranging from climbing to a panoramic viewpoint, entering a thick forest, establishing contact with the water of the waterfall or enjoying the exquisite view of a garden organized around a pond.
Photo courtesy of Tobias WittigThe integration of architecture with the landscape is remarkable, not only by the materials used and the spatial flow within the buildings , but because of the form of the coverings, which simulates the visual continuity of the mountain. As a counterpoint to the mass of temples of pyramidal roofs, the verticality and slenderness of the pagodas contrasts with the profile of the forested mountain.
Some Final Anecdotes
This traditional temple is also the subject of several anecdotal occurrences that I would briefly comment.
- During the Edo period , many people used to jump from the terrace of the Hon-do, as an act of courage. In fact, of 234 jumps, over 85% survived the fall on the trees. From there comes the Japanese proverb "to jump from the terrace of Kiyomizu dera" in order to refer to a glorious act or of much value.
- - It is said that in the eighth century a pregnant woman came to pray at the pagoda Koyasu-no-to and the baby turned out to be the Empress Kokko, making it a favorite place to visit for pregnant women.
- As mentioned, it is said that drinking water from the waterfall Otowa no taki is good for health, success and longevity studies, but water only should be drink from one of the waterfalls, because if you take the three effects are the opposite as divine punishment for greed.
- North of the temple is the Jishu shrine where there are a couple of stones called Mekura ishi, separated from each other by about 20 meters. It is said one has to walk from one stone to another with the eyes closed, repeating the name of his/her beloved one. If you get to the correct destination, it will ensure a happy love life, if not... it is better to find another partner ...
Photo by MykReeve
With Dominican architect Juan Tineo, enjoying a beer next to the waterfall
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